Restaurant-Style Refried Beans
Makes 5½ cups
For the soupy black beans:
1 lb. (about 2½ cups) black beans, rinsed and picked over
½ cup white onion, roughly chopped
3 large garlic cloves
8 cups water
1 large jalapeño
3 large fresh epazote stalks (optional)
1½ tsp. salt, or to taste
6 tbsp. vegetable oil
2/3 cup white onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp. packed fresh epazote, chopped (optional)
Salt
1. To make the soupy black beans, put beans, onion, garlic, and water in a large (at least 4½-quart) saucepan and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the liquid is simmering and cook, uncovered, until beans are softened but not tender, about 1 hour. (Note: It's better to overcook than to serve beans al dente.)
2. Cut a slit in the jalapeño and add it to the beans, along with the epazote, if used, and salt. Continue cooking until the beans are very tender, about 30 minutes. There should be enough liquid to cover the beans throughout cooking so that they are soupy; if not, add warm water as necessary. Remove the jalapeño and check the seasoning.
3. Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until very brown, about 10 minutes.
4. Scrape the onion into the beans. If you have an immersion blender, use it to blend the beans to a coarse puree. If using a standard blender, work in three batches and stop the blender often to avoid making the puree too smooth. Transfer the beans to a saucepan (or to the pan the onions were cooked in) and stir in the epazote, if used. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cook until thickened to the consistency of oatmeal, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir often as beans cook, especially after they thicken and become more likely to stick to the pan. Check seasoning, add salt if necessary, and then serve.
Note: The beans may be prepared in advance and kept at room temperature for up to 2 hours or refrigerated for up to 2 days. If refrigerated, reheat by simmering beans over low heat, and add water a little at a time to restore to original consistency.

Spring/Summer 2009 Girlfriend Getaways